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Rose is not a women’s only note, and it never was. It only became one because the industry decided so somewhere around the 1980s, and men’s fragrance has spent the years since sneaking it back in disguise — under oud, under leather, under a name with “noir” in it.

So I wanted to create a list, a list that gives many jumping in points to rose, from the barely there to the full Bucket (“it’s pronounced Bouquet”).

Each costs between £35 and £235, so a really healthy spread. One is clean and green, one smells like a shelled field, one is essentially a pudding, and one is so composed it could be worn to a funeral or a board meeting without anyone thinking twice. If you only take one recommendation: the one I wear most is £95, and the one I’d hand someone who’s convinced rose isn’t for them is the most expensive thing on the list, which is inconvenient for both of us.

There’s also a distinction running underneath all of this that I’ll come back to at the end, because it’s the reason the list exists at all!

Byredo Rose of No Man’s Land — £235 / 50ml

Byredo Rose of No Man’s Land eau de parfum bottle

Ben Gorham, 2015. Pink pepper, Turkey red rose, raspberry blossom, papyrus, amber.

The least rose-like rose here, and the only one that spooks me slightly. What I get is a field after something has happened to it: metal, gunpowder, a kind of adrenaline. But then, underneath, hope. I really kept going back on this description as it’s easy for a name to conjure up sentiment, but objectively it didn’t, the notes really do create an imagined picture of the morning after an early 20th century battle.

Gorham made this for the centenary of the First World War, and “the rose of no man’s land” was soldiers’ parlance for the Red Cross nurses working the front line, taken from a 1918 song. The rose isn’t growing on the battlefield as decoration; the rose is the nurse. The metallic quality is pink pepper at the top over a dry, mineral papyrus at the bottom.

It wears like a certain kind of father, one who goes to war for his family, literally or otherwise, and survived through grit and stoicism. It’s also a rose that never announces itself as one, which makes it the obvious starting point for anyone who thinks they don’t like rose.

At £235 it is the one thing here I struggle to justify on price, but if that’s not an issue, then go for it.

Perfumer H Rose With Insect — £165 / 50ml

Perfumer H Rose With Insect eau de parfum bottle

Lyn Harris, 2025. Bergamot, peach, neroli, rose isolates, cardamom, sandalwood, papyrus, birch, musk.

Green, cool and entirely free of any fruity-jammyness rose sometimes brings. It opens the way a flower shop smells when you walk in — cut stems, water, leaves — but in true Lyn Harris style, refuses to commit to a gender. The peach and neroli aren’t there as fruitful offerings. They feel like the structure, giving the rose a third dimension it wouldn’t otherwise have.

The reason it stays green and fresh rather than turning sticky is that Lyn built it on rose isolates rather than a rose absolute: individual molecules pulled out of the flower instead of the whole thing. Underneath sits birch and papyrus, and between them they produce a faint metallic streak, like petrol on a beetle’s wing it’s described as and it’s very much there. The insect arrives late and comes and goes, so the fragrance keeps shifting on the skin — three sniffs of the same wrist will give you three different impressions.

I love to top up by mid-afternoon, but it scales with how much you apply rather than shouting at one setting, and it never feels like it’s fading out from under you. The most quietly well-made thing on this list.

Atkinsons Rose in Wonderland — £170 / 100ml

Atkinsons Rose in Wonderland eau de parfum bottle

Fabrice Pellegrin, 2014. Rose dew, blackcurrant buds, rose centifolia absolute, geranium, crystal amber, vetiver.

The reserved one. Blackcurrant takes the sharpness out of the rose and lands the whole thing in an English garden, and English is the operative word — this smells like laundry rather than powder. Clean cotton, pressed linen, a stately room that’s just been aired.

It’s a rose for someone who wants to feel immaculate rather than interesting: neat, washed, not a hair out of place. That sounds like faint praise and isn’t. Almost nothing in niche fragrance is willing to be this well behaved, and there are plenty of days that call for it.

Worth knowing it sells out constantly on Atkinsons’ own site and at Cult Beauty, so check the card below for who actually has it in stock.

Side Story Sunday Service — £160 / 100ml

Side Story Sunday Service eau de parfum bottle

Saffron, pepper, rose, patchouli, cistus labdanum, frankincense, gurjum balsam.

The best-constructed fragrance here, and the one I’d put in front of someone who says they don’t want to smell of rose. The rose is a component rather than the subject.

What it actually smells of is a beautiful Catholic church. Not as a metaphor either: frankincense is the resin burned in a thurible at mass, and cistus labdanum has been used in church incense for centuries, so the association is chemical rather than poetic. The leather note is saffron, which does a convincing impression of it without any leather being present. Around all that there’s a cool, high-ceilinged quality, the feeling of air moving through stone. It suits autumn and winter nights and it suits being slightly overdressed.

It’s also the fragrance on this list that smells most expensive without ever advertising the fact. I first found the brand through Jason Waterworth, who brought me into luxury fragrance in the early Manface days and has never attached his name to something he didn’t rate.

My review of their Hotel Lobby is here.

Frédéric Malle Rose Tonnerre — £205 / 50ml

Frédéric Malle Rose Tonnerre eau de parfum bottle

Édouard Fléchier. Launched as Une Rose in 2003, renamed in 2021 with no reformulation. Turkish rose absolute, honey, wine lees, geranium, truffle, patchouli, vetiver, castoreum.

This is where the volume goes up. Rounded, boozy and confident, with a jamminess closer to a heavy Spanish red wine than to anything in a sweet shop.

Two materials are doing the work. The soapiness that hits on the first spray is geranium, which is about as close to soap as a natural gets. The animal edge underneath, the thing that stops it reading as pretty at any point, is castoreum. The famous truffle accord never announces itself as savoury; it just weighs the fruit down and stops it running off.

It’s a genuinely good and fun fragrance that I enjoy wearing. It’s also £205, and the Van Cleef below does a more interesting version of the same territory for less. Buy it because you want this specific one, not because it’s the expensive option.

It’s in Malle’s discovery set, which is the sensible way to try it.

Van Cleef & Arpels Moonlight Rose — £170 / 75ml

Van Cleef & Arpels Moonlight Rose eau de parfum bottle

Fabrice Pellegrin, 2023, Collection Extraordinaire. Pink pepper, geranium, Bulgarian rose, Taif rose, patchouli, oakmoss, raspberry.

The one for those who want stage presence. Oakmoss gives it a dry, bitter, slightly old-fashioned backbone, spice sits behind that, and the fruit almost disappears. Dark and unfriendly in the best sense.

If you already like oud or Middle Eastern spice, this is the rose that will make sense to you immediately. It expects something from whoever’s wearing it, too — there’s a weight to it that a younger man would disappear underneath. Spices and roses thrown at the feet of an emperor, rather than a flower worn in the hair.

It’s worth noting it’s RuPaul’s favourite, which is why I bought the sample in the first place, and having worn it I can see exactly why. If you only see the drag monster of RuPaul, then this isn’t that, this is gender-queering subversion of the hyper masculine and feminine that he’s most celebrated for; it’s presence, it’s royalty. Moonlight Rose is a king’s fragrance, or a drag queen’s the queen of drag’s.

One oddity: Fabrice Pellegrin made this and the Atkinsons above, and I can find nothing at all connecting them.

Akro Crush — £95 / 30ml

Akro Crush extrait de parfum bottle

Olivier Cresp, 2025, extrait de parfum. Roasted almond, lychee, Bulgarian rose, praline, vanilla.

My favourite thing here, and the cheapest bottle apart from the Lush.

It’s a gourmand and it makes no apology for it: praline, roasted almond, vanilla, and a lychee note sitting right on top of the rose. Cresp’s concept was a rose macaron and that’s more or less literally what you get, except there’s enough of an edge to it that it never collapses into dessert. It’s an extrait, so it lasts absurdly well — which is a problem when all I want to do is keep spraying it. I’m usually a fairly even-tempered person and this one makes me behave badly.

It’s also the one people comment on. I bought a 10ml sample from Jovoy, then the 30ml from Harvey Nichols, where I found it on a bestsellers stand and felt slightly robbed, because it had been a secret weapon up to that point.

And this is the distinction I promised. Crush isn’t feminine. It’s gay — camp, rich, knowing, sweet on purpose, non-conformist while passing perfectly well as conformist. This is for someone who wants bucket (bouquet) loads of cheeky fun.

Jovoy in Mayfair will sample you first.

Lush Rose Jam — £35 / 30ml

Lush Rose Jam perfume bottle

Turkish rose, lemon, geranium, vanilla.

The first rose I ever loved, and still the one I’d start a sceptic on if the Byredo weren’t £200 more.

Picture a good pot of raspberry jam — Bonne Maman, or something from Fortnum’s. Now picture a rose at its most obvious: big, bright, green, the one a child would draw. Lush smashed the two together and bottled it. That’s the fragrance, and the reason it works is that rose, lemon and vanilla genuinely do add up to jam.

It’s young, unsubtle and surprisingly masculine, and it has no interest in being taken seriously. I bought it for my mum as a Mother’s Day present almost 15 years ago when it was still a shower gel, kept stealing it, and now have a bottle of the perfume my husband bought me. He knows what it means when I put it on, and that’s chaos, levity and fun.

It holds up two decades later because Lush fragrances aren’t playing the same game as everyone else — they’re their own universe, always have been; they don’t copy and aren’t copied. I’ve enjoyed being in that universe a long time: I reviewed the Gorilla Perfumes in their early days and interviewed Simon Constantine about them, who once named Hellstone as his own favourite “because its raw and earthy and challenges the person wearing it”.

The one that didn’t make it

MFK’s L’Homme À la rose — one of the first fragrances from a major house to put the men’s framing right into the name. It’s lovely, it’s safe, it’s very MFK. I adore Francis but couldn’t get anywhere with it – theres more for less and more for more on this list.

What they cost

Fragrance Size Price Per ml
Lush Rose Jam 30ml £35 £1.17
Side Story Sunday Service 100ml £160 £1.60
Atkinsons Rose in Wonderland 100ml £170 £1.70
Van Cleef & Arpels Moonlight Rose 75ml £170 £2.27
Akro Crush 30ml £95 £3.17
Perfumer H Rose With Insect 50ml £165 £3.30
Frédéric Malle Rose Tonnerre 50ml £205 £4.10
Byredo Rose of No Man’s Land 50ml £235 £4.70

The two most expensive bottles on the list are the two I won’t defend on price. The £35 one and the £95 one are the two I truly love with all my heart. Which tells you most of what you need to know about how rose gets sold to men, and how little the price has to do with whether it’s any good.

Where I’d buy them

Every product in this piece, with the shops I list. Some links earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you.

Atkinsons Rose in Wonderland

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